Tibetan food to try
- Momos: steamed or fried dumplings, vegetable, cheese or meat, with chilli sauce.
- Thukpa and thenthuk: noodle soups, perfect on a cold evening.
- Tingmo: soft steamed bread, often served with a spicy stew.
- Laphing: a cold, spicy mung-bean noodle snack sold from street stalls.
- Butter tea: salty Tibetan tea churned with butter; try it once.
- Tibetan bread: round fried bread for breakfast, with honey or jam.
Himachali food in the Kangra valley
Kangra has its own version of the dham, the festive meal cooked by traditional cooks and served on leaf plates, with dishes such as madra, sepu vadi and sweet rice. It's mostly served at weddings and festivals, but some restaurants in Dharamshala and Palampur offer it. Siddu and other Himachali dishes are easier to find in the lower town than in McLeod Ganj.
The café scene
Cafés are a big part of McLeod Ganj life, from long-established Tibetan restaurants on the main roads to rooftop terraces with Dhauladhar views. Bhagsu and Dharamkot have the most relaxed cafés, popular with long-stay travellers, with Israeli, Italian and health-food menus, good coffee and bakeries. Cafés open and close often, so ask around or check recent reviews rather than relying on old lists.
Many cafés support Tibetan causes or train local staff; eating there is a small way to support the community.
What to buy
- Tibetan handicrafts: singing bowls, prayer flags, thangka paintings and jewellery.
- Woollens, shawls and scarves.
- Kangra tea, green or black, from Palampur's gardens.
- Books on Tibet and Buddhism.
- Handmade crafts from Norbulingka Institute, which trains Tibetan artists.
Where to shop
Temple Road and Jogiwara Road in McLeod Ganj are lined with shops and stalls selling Tibetan crafts, clothes and souvenirs. Prices in street stalls are open to bargaining; fixed-price shops and Norbulingka's store won't move much. Lower Dharamshala's Kotwali Bazaar is the everyday market for clothes, shoes and household goods. For tea, buy at the estates or reputable shops in Palampur and Dharamshala.
Tips
- Try laphing and momos from busy stalls, where turnover is high.
- Carry cash; many small cafés and stalls prefer it.
- Many cafés close earlier in winter.
- Check that 'antique' items are genuine before paying a high price.
- Drink filtered or bottled water.
Eating well on a budget
McLeod Ganj is one of the cheapest places in Himachal to eat out. A plate of momos or a bowl of thukpa at a simple Tibetan restaurant costs very little, and many cafés serve generous breakfasts. Vegetarians are well catered for, since many Tibetan dishes come in vegetable versions, and several cafés focus on vegan and health food.
Frequently asked questions
What is the famous food of McLeod Ganj?+
Tibetan food: momos, thukpa, thenthuk, tingmo and laphing.
Where are the best cafés in Dharamshala?+
In McLeod Ganj, Bhagsu and Dharamkot. Cafés change often, so check recent reviews.
What should I buy in McLeod Ganj?+
Tibetan crafts like singing bowls and prayer flags, shawls, books, Norbulingka crafts and Kangra tea.
Which is the main market in McLeod Ganj?+
Temple Road and Jogiwara Road around the main square. Lower Dharamshala's main market is Kotwali Bazaar.
Is there Himachali food in Dharamshala?+
Yes, mostly in the lower town and Palampur. Look for restaurants serving Kangra dham or siddu.
What is laphing?+
A cold, spicy Tibetan street snack made from mung-bean starch noodles, popular in McLeod Ganj.
