Background
After leaving Tibet in 1959, the Dalai Lama first set up his administration in Mussoorie, and in 1960 the Central Tibetan Administration moved to Dharamshala. McLeod Ganj, then a near-empty former British hill station, became the centre of Tibetan life in exile, and Tsuglagkhang was built as its main temple. The Namgyal monastery, the Dalai Lama's personal monastery, was re-established here the same year.
What to see in the complex
- The main temple: large statues of the Buddha Shakyamuni, Avalokiteshvara (Chenrezig) and Padmasambhava in a bright, peaceful hall.
- Namgyal monastery: monks debate in the courtyard on many afternoons, with dramatic hand-clapping gestures.
- The Tibet Museum: founded in 1998, with photographs and objects telling the story of Tibet and the exile community.
- The prayer wheels: rows of wheels to turn clockwise as you walk.
- The kora: a forest path around the whole complex, lined with prayer flags, stupas and mani stones carved with mantras.
Timings and entry
Entry to the complex is free. It's generally open from early morning into the evening, but published hours differ, so treat any time you read as approximate. The Tibet Museum is usually open from about 9 am to 5 pm and closed on Mondays, with a small entry fee. Early mornings are the most atmospheric, when monks and local Tibetans make their prayers and circuits.
Security checks apply at the gate, and bags may be inspected. Photography is restricted in parts of the temple; follow the signs.
Attending a teaching
The Dalai Lama gives public teachings at Tsuglagkhang on some dates each year, depending on his schedule and health. Attendance is free or nominal but requires advance registration with photo ID at the Tibetan security office in McLeod Ganj, usually a day or two before. Dates are announced on the Dalai Lama's official website. Our McLeod Ganj guide for international visitors explains the process in more detail.
Etiquette
- Walk clockwise around the temple, stupas and prayer wheels.
- Dress modestly: covered shoulders and knees.
- Remove shoes and hats where indicated, and speak quietly.
- Don't point your feet at statues or monks when sitting.
- Ask before photographing monks or people at prayer.
How to get there
The complex is about a 5 to 10-minute walk down Temple Road from McLeod Ganj's main square. From lower Dharamshala, take the Skyway ropeway, a local bus or a taxi up to McLeod Ganj. Vehicles can't stop at the gate in busy hours, so drivers usually drop visitors at the square.
Frequently asked questions
Is there an entry fee for the Dalai Lama temple?+
No. Entry to the Tsuglagkhang complex is free. The Tibet Museum charges a small fee.
What are the Dalai Lama temple timings?+
Generally early morning to evening, but published hours vary. Mornings are the best time to visit.
Can I meet the Dalai Lama?+
Private audiences are rare. You may see him at public teachings, which need advance registration with ID.
Where does the Dalai Lama live?+
In his residence within the Tsuglagkhang complex in McLeod Ganj, which isn't open to visitors.
Is the Tibet Museum open on Mondays?+
It's usually closed on Mondays. Check locally, as days can change.
Can non-Buddhists visit the temple?+
Yes. Visitors of all faiths are welcome, as long as they dress modestly and behave respectfully.
