Dhankar, Tabo and Pin Valley: Monasteries and Side Valleys of Lower Spiti

Distances are approximate road distances from Kaza; heights are approximate.

Dhankar stands on a spur of fragile, wind-carved rock high above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers. The old monastery and the ruins of a fort, once the seat of Spiti's local ruler, the Nono, look as if they're about to slide off the cliff; conservation work has been done to protect them, and a newer monastery stands nearby. A steep walk of about an hour leads up to Dhankar lake, a small high lake with views of the Manirang peaks. Take it slowly at this altitude.

Tabo monastery was founded in 996 CE and is among the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monasteries in the Himalaya. Its unassuming mud-brick halls hide remarkable murals and stucco sculptures from the early centuries, which is why it's sometimes called the 'Ajanta of the Himalayas'. Light inside is dim, and photography is restricted in the old halls to protect the paintings. On the hillside above the village are meditation caves, with a newer monastery in the village too.

At about 3,280 m, Tabo is lower than Kaza, making it a good place to spend a first night when arriving from Kinnaur.

The Pin valley branches south from the Spiti river near Attargo, leading to green fields, poplar-lined villages and the Pin Valley National Park, a protected area for Himalayan wildlife including ibex and the snow leopard. The road ends at Mudh, a village with homestays and the start of the Pin–Bhaba and Pin–Parvati treks. It's a peaceful detour of half a day or an overnight.

Coming from Kinnaur: Nako to Tabo, overnight; next day Tabo to Dhankar and on to Kaza, with a detour into Pin if there's time. Coming from Kaza: a full-day round trip to Dhankar and Tabo, or include Pin and stay a night at Mudh. Your driver will advise on road conditions; the stretch near the confluence is prone to rockfall.