Leh Ladakh Travel Guide: When to Go, Permits, Altitude and What to See

Leh lies north of the main Himalayan range, so it gets very little rain, and the landscape is high desert. The old town climbs below Leh Palace, a nine-storey royal palace from the 17th century, with lanes of whitewashed houses, cafés and the main bazaar below.

Travellers come for the monasteries of the Indus valley, the drives over Khardung La to Nubra and to Pangong Tso, remote corners such as Turtuk and Hanle, trekking and rafting, and the road journeys from Manali and Srinagar, which are among the most famous in the world.

Leh's airport, the Kushok Bakula Rimpochee airport, has daily flights from Delhi and some from Mumbai, Srinagar and other cities, year round. Flying is the quickest way in, but you land at 3,500 m with no time to adjust, which is why rest on arrival matters so much.

By road there are two routes. The Manali–Leh highway is about 430 km over four high passes, takes two days and is usually open from late May or June to October or mid-November. The Srinagar–Leh road via Zoji La and Kargil is about 420 km, also two days, with a slightly longer season. Coming in by road on one and leaving by the other, or flying out, is a popular plan. Our Manali–Leh highway guide covers the drive in detail.

The main season is May or June to September. Days are warm and sunny, the roads are open, and Pangong and Nubra are at their best. July and August see some rain and landslides on the approach roads, though Ladakh itself stays mostly dry. September and early October are clear and quieter, but nights are cold. Winter, from November to March, is extremely cold, with temperatures far below freezing; Leh is reachable only by air, and trips focus on snow leopards, frozen lakes and the Chadar trek.

Altitude is the most important thing to plan for in Ladakh. Leh is at about 3,500 m, Pangong at about 4,250 m, and the road passes are above 5,000 m. Ladakh's health authorities advise visitors who fly in to rest completely for the first 24 to 48 hours. Spend at least two nights in Leh before going higher or over Khardung La, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol and don't sleep higher than you need to early on.

Headache and poor sleep are common at first. Severe headache, vomiting, breathlessness at rest or confusion are warning signs of serious altitude sickness: descend and get medical help. Talk to a doctor before the trip if you have heart or lung conditions. Our altitude guide explains the symptoms and precautions.

Rules have changed several times in recent years, so check before you go. Indian citizens currently register and pay an environment and wildlife fee online through the Ladakh administration's portal for Nubra, Pangong and other protected areas. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for these areas, applied for through a registered travel agent in Leh; it usually takes a day. Carry several photocopies of your permit and passport, because checkposts keep copies.

Plan a few gentle days around Leh before heading higher. Distances are approximate road distances from Leh.

Allow at least six or seven days if you fly in: two days of rest and local sights in Leh, two days for Nubra, and two for Pangong. With ten days, add Turtuk and Hanle or Tso Moriri. If you drive in from Manali, add two days for the road. Our Ladakh packages lay out these plans with hotels and permits included.

Taxis registered outside Ladakh, including those from Himachal, can drop you in Leh, but local sightseeing to Nubra, Pangong and other places has to be done in a Leh-registered taxi, at rates set by the local taxi union. Plan a separate Leh taxi for your days in Ladakh; our Ladakh taxi rules guide explains how this works. Self-drive rental cars from outside Ladakh face the same restrictions, while rental motorbikes from Leh are popular with experienced riders.

Mobile coverage is limited outside Leh, and usually only postpaid connections from some networks work. ATMs are in Leh only, so carry cash for Nubra and Pangong. Fuel is available at Leh, Diskit and a few other places; drivers plan around it.